Hillclimbers Restoration Project in GT (Ford V4 / V6) Forum

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Hillclimbers Restoration Project

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Hillclimber	Hillclimbers Restoration Project		Lead	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 16 Thu, 2-Jul-2009 21:23	Tags : None Last Edited By: Hillclimber Sat, 4-Jul-2009 19:48. Edited 1 time.
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OldNoccer		#1	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 647 Thu, 2-Jul-2009 21:47	Nope - get album not found. To check the link on a post you are creating, press the preview button and then you see what your post will look like and can check your own link. If it doesn't work for you that way, then it won't work for anyone else. If it does work for you, but not for us, then maybe the permissions on the image are not generous enough (i.e. you are allowed to see it, but we are not). Maybe the way you have copied the link hasn't copied all the link. For example if you dragged your cursor across it and it had some scrolled off the edge of the display box which wasn't selected. You know what computers are like, a single character missing and they are lost. Keep trying - you'll crack it. Steve There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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Hillclimber		#2	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 17 Fri, 3-Jul-2009 11:39	Thanks OldNoccar The link works for me on both preview and posted message. I have reset my compatibility settings so please try again and advise Thanks Peter
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etypeaters		#3	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 49 Fri, 3-Jul-2009 17:56	Still not working, HC. Maybe Quiffster can lend some expertise?
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OldNoccer		#4	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 649 Fri, 3-Jul-2009 22:18	Nope, still not working - are you sure the pasted link is every part of the real link ? But given it is so easy to upload pictures to Yuku and then paste them in directly (albeit at moderate quality) - why don't you use this simple route first before trying to link to your remote source of pictures. Just click on Navigation -Image Management - and you can create albums and upload files easy as pie. If you hit the limit on numbers of images (and it seems pretty big) then you can start linking to remote web pages. This splits the problem into two parts - divide and conquer...! Steve There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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Hillclimber		#5	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 18 Sat, 4-Jul-2009 07:52	HEY - I think I have cracked it using Yuku Please confirm and I will start my restoration story. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:05. Edited 1 time.
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Adrian2		#6	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 33 Sat, 4-Jul-2009 08:15	Can see the phot now, looking forward to seeing a few more. Adrian
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Martyn123		#7	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 136 Sat, 4-Jul-2009 08:16	Wow !
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Hillclimber		#8	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 20 Sat, 4-Jul-2009 19:46	Hi Martyn 123 Yes nice looking AND you can see why I do not want to remove the body in case I upset the nice door/bomnnet closing lines and the paintwork is not bad considering its been in a barn for 7 years. More detail follows
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OldNoccer		#9	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 652 Sat, 4-Jul-2009 20:04	Divided and conquered - well done. Look forward to more pictures. Steve There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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Hillclimber		#10	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 21 Mon, 6-Jul-2009 07:45	Well I will probably bore some of the older forum members with repeats of previous projects but for newcomers like me they may help with some current problems. Obviously engine out and if you look carefully you can see the 2 rust perforated chassis members at bottom of door sill. I have since drilled 6mm holes in all "Welded shut" members and these 2 are the only ones that need replacing. So body stays on. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:06. Edited 1 time.
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Hillclimber		#11	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 22 Mon, 6-Jul-2009 17:47	So with engine out to the workshop you can see a little problem with a core plug leaking - for a few years Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:07. Edited 1 time.
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Hillclimber		#12	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 25 Tue, 7-Jul-2009 20:13	So next step is to grit blast the chassis. With a little summer help I could do this outside. The hydraulic hoist gives great access and with an 8ft fencing pole through the rear arches and a 5ft lift you can do the back end quite easily. I used 150kg of expendable grit in total but you can see with the plastic ground sheet you can recover the grit which never hit any metal. £6 for 25 kg not bad. Pic shows sifting the used grit to remove all the crap otherwise it blocks the gun. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:09. Edited 1 time.
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etypeaters		#13	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 52 Wed, 8-Jul-2009 23:02	Hillclimber wrote: Well I will probably bore some of the older forum members with repeats of previous projects but for newcomers like me they may help with some current problems. You won't bore me, mate. I really enjoy following this sort of thread. Thanks for putting in the effort.
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Kiwi Jeff	Nice tyre fit	#14	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 94 Thu, 9-Jul-2009 13:11 Apprentice mechanic	Hi there ... what size tyres are those. Really nice fit with the wheel arch ... much nicer than with the low profile tyres you commonly see.
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Hillclimber		#15	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 26 Thu, 9-Jul-2009 19:56	Hi Kiwi Jeff - the tyres are apparently original having done 27,000 miles and are Avon Radials SR13SR. So my next job was to clean off the numerous coats of "Black Bitumen" applied by a previous owner who had also painted all under the bonnet area black !!! and the joint between scuttle and main bodywork. Anyway all scrapped off with a 3/4" wood chisel down to the original natural fibreglass and repainted with primer and the "Colour Matched" aerosol - great match actually. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:10. Edited 1 time.
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Hillclimber		#16	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 27 Fri, 10-Jul-2009 19:27	So the next job was to reverse the masking and tidy up the bulkhead and paint the chassis. For my previous restorations I have used the "Eastwoods" range of paints from Frost Restorations. The AJS car I did 15 years ago and the Berkeley about 6 years ago. Both cars paintwork are still good. For the Marcos grit blasted steelwork I used 1 coat of the Dinatrol Converust as a rust preventative, 2 coats of Extreme Chassis Black Primer and then 2 coats of Chassis Black Extreme Satin as a finish. Looks excellent. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:50. Edited 1 time.
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Hillclimber		#17	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 28 Fri, 10-Jul-2009 19:37	Now comes the tedious part - cleaning, grit blasting, inspecting & painting all of the components. I have moved my Grit Blast cabinet outside the workshop into a spare greenhouse - ideal temperature for painting & drying the bits. Here's the 1st batch, don't expect any more posts for couple of weeks - there's lots of bits to do. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 30-Dec-2009 15:51. Edited 2 times.
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Hillclimber		#18	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 35 Sun, 26-Jul-2009 10:13	Hi Work continues with another load of parts drying after grit blast, rustproofing, priming and the satin Black finish Just cutting out the 2 chassis members which need replacing, hopefully welded in next week. Last Edited By: Hillclimber Sun, 26-Jul-2009 10:15. Edited 1 time.
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Hillclimber	Electrics	#19	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 38 Thu, 6-Aug-2009 17:29	Whilst waiting for the welder I started to investigate the wiring, after unpacking the delivery of 4 new shocks. Through the help of Marcos Forum members I have accumulated 4 versions of the "Correct 1969 V6 wiring diagram" but NONE of them are close to what I have. There are only 2 original fuses in my circuit. No. 1 fuse has a large Light Green wire in and 8 small dark green out. No2 fuse has 2 large browns in and 4 purples out. The Ignition switch has 4 terminals. Light green, white and brown on term 1, Brown on term 2, Black/green on term 3 and red/white term.4 Anyone has anything similar or drawing with 2 fuses? At present seems best if I take everything off and start again using a selected "Correct 1969 V6 diagram" but electrics not my best subject. Hoping to talk to some of you at Prescott about this and final selection of best gearbox.
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dparslow		#20	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 703 Fri, 7-Aug-2009 08:29 Chief mechanic	I have a wiring diagram in an old club mag I will try to find it and bring it to Prescott for you. Wiring is very logical once you understand the basics, I made my own loom up for NCM 109H. All you need to know is what is required to be battery supplied and what is ignition supplied and put plenty of earth points in too. I added several relays and put a 8 row fuse box in at the same time, if we meet up at Prescott at some point I will show you and explain the basics. It`s not more power you need, it`s less weight and a few subtle mods and some not so subtle!
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