If you are just after the metal plate that holds the two push rods in place I'll put one in the post for you tomorrow as I have some spare ones from a
cracked cylinder head I replaced.
Adrian
Adrian
Hillclimbers Restoration Project
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 Adrian2 |
#41 | |||
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Posts: 48 Wed, 30-Dec-2009 19:13 |
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Hillclimber |
#42 | |||
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Posts: 87 Thu, 7-Jan-2010 18:44 |
The "New" engine is checked over and I am happy with whoever rebuilt it, the tightness is in the bores (new forged pistons and rings). Valve timings
were spot on according to the Kent Cam data. However I did find that there is about 1mm difference in the total valve openings. Is this critical?
I did find that the new cast ally valve covers were fouling on the valve rocker studs, the valve springs, and in one case the pushrod guide which had no doubt caused the cracked one I had found earlier. I converted my Pillar drill to an "End "Mill" and got rid of the problem excess ali material. Now onto the Bell Housing - T5 gearbox and need some help/advice. 
The V6 bell housing presently fitted to the T5 is numbered 70VB - 7505AA and fitted (5 bolts) via an adapter plate with 16mm countersunk bolts either side of the plate. There are 2 alternate aperatures ( 4 and 8 o'clock respectively) at low level for the clutch operating lever which line up with unmachined holes about 25mm diameter in the bell housing. What type of hydraulic cylinder/actuator do I need to use this bellhousing? Alternatively I can re-drill the adapter plate (6 bolts) and fit my original bell housing - FOMOCO part no. 3008E 7505A - which is complete with hyd. cylinder etc. at higher level away from the dirt area at about 10 o'clock position. Whats the better solution? Final rebuild - Yes I know the Air Filter will not fit under bonnet but looks good for a photo? I just hope the carb height will fit? We will see. 
Have now fitted the new alternator and the Bosch/Aldon dizzy so all ready to fit clutch and the T5
Last Edited By: Hillclimber Thu, 7-Jan-2010 20:16.
Edited 2 times.
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cactusdave |
Hydraulic cylinder | #43 | ||
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Posts: 86 Fri, 8-Jan-2010 11:11 |
On my V6 which is fitted with a type 9 gearbox I fitted a co-axial hydraulic clutch cylinder which goes on the gearbox nose in the bell housing. A similar one
is available for th T5 gearbox from Burton but it is expensive part no APC10- ca £230
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Hillclimber |
#44 | |||
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Posts: 89 Sat, 16-Jan-2010 09:38 |
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cactusdave |
Clearance | #45 | ||
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Posts: 87 Sat, 16-Jan-2010 14:50 |
On my car, with no passengers and tyres at 45psi (to stop flatting when not in use) the clearance under the sump is 3.5in. Your inlet manifold looks too tall!
Mine with triple Webers and short trumpets have ca 1in clearance from bonnet
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Hillclimber |
#46 | |||
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Posts: 91 Tue, 19-Jan-2010 10:16 |
So whilst trying to decide what to with the carb, I have resolved the T5 gearbox, bell housing, hydralic actuator problems. The bell housing which came with
the T5 had no mounting for an external hydraulic cylinder. The bell housing fitted to the "Old" V6 did have a mounting.
So I have made a transition plate to accept the different bolting patterns of the bellhousing and gearbox. I used 1/4" thick Duralium I had in "Stock". I made it using a treplanning tool to cut the large hole and a milling tool to cut the profile all on my pedestal drill. After fitting all together I had to grind off 1/8" from the end of the gearbox shaft. 
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Hillclimber |
#47 | |||
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Posts: 93 Mon, 25-Jan-2010 18:25 |
 To increase the funds, my son and I spent some time collecting the 30 years "Junk" and bits I might need one day and attended our local Autojumble with a stand. Quite productive and serious enquiries about the V6, 4HA axle so now I can buy the final, I hope, bits. |
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Hillclimber |
#48 | |||
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Posts: 96 Sun, 7-Mar-2010 11:03 |
Was in Chile all February visiting son and family. Just got out before the quake and they survived OK. |
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cactusdave |
Starter Motor | #49 | ||
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Posts: 90 Sun, 7-Mar-2010 16:41 |
I was thinking of fitting the high torque starter motor but as it seems to be "offset" I wasn't sure if it would clear my exhaust? What are you doing about your carb fit? modifying the bonnet or the carb manifold?
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Hillclimber |
#50 | |||
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Posts: 97 Mon, 8-Mar-2010 09:15 |
Hi Castusdave
I purchased the RAC407 Powerlite starter motor from www.rallydesign.co.uk at £148.50 + P&P. The 2 bolt mounting flange is bolted to the starter motor and provided with about 30 predrilled holes so you can rotate the motor independant of the flange. I had to rotate about 10 degrees from supply - fitted perfectly AND it rotated engine at high speed inspite of the initial "Very Tight" engine. I am refitting engine before final decision on carb, but looks like a cut and reweld on the manifold. |
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Hillclimber |
#51 | |||
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Posts: 98 Mon, 8-Mar-2010 19:25 |
Monday 8th March
Engine & gearbox refitted today and in position. The gearlever on the T5 is a little further back which is good for my short arms!!. Lots of work to do now and THEN engine fire up = always a good time in a restoration |
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cactusdave |
Gearlever | #52 | ||
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Registered Member
Posts: 91 Tue, 9-Mar-2010 11:33 |
Hi,
I had same trouble with my type 9 gearbox so had it shortened Otherwise would have had to have a new leather cover made. Also my arms not short enough!! |
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