If you are just after the metal plate that holds the two push rods in place I'll put one in the post for you tomorrow as I have some spare ones from a
cracked cylinder head I replaced.
Adrian
Adrian
Hillclimbers Restoration Project
| Author | Comment | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
 Adrian2 |
#41 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 48 Wed, 30-Dec-2009 19:13 |
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#42 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 87 Thu, 7-Jan-2010 18:44 |
The "New" engine is checked over and I am happy with whoever rebuilt it, the tightness is in the bores (new forged pistons and rings). Valve timings
were spot on according to the Kent Cam data. However I did find that there is about 1mm difference in the total valve openings. Is this critical?
I did find that the new cast ally valve covers were fouling on the valve rocker studs, the valve springs, and in one case the pushrod guide which had no doubt caused the cracked one I had found earlier. I converted my Pillar drill to an "End "Mill" and got rid of the problem excess ali material. Now onto the Bell Housing - T5 gearbox and need some help/advice. 
The V6 bell housing presently fitted to the T5 is numbered 70VB - 7505AA and fitted (5 bolts) via an adapter plate with 16mm countersunk bolts either side of the plate. There are 2 alternate aperatures ( 4 and 8 o'clock respectively) at low level for the clutch operating lever which line up with unmachined holes about 25mm diameter in the bell housing. What type of hydraulic cylinder/actuator do I need to use this bellhousing? Alternatively I can re-drill the adapter plate (6 bolts) and fit my original bell housing - FOMOCO part no. 3008E 7505A - which is complete with hyd. cylinder etc. at higher level away from the dirt area at about 10 o'clock position. Whats the better solution? Final rebuild - Yes I know the Air Filter will not fit under bonnet but looks good for a photo? I just hope the carb height will fit? We will see. 
Have now fitted the new alternator and the Bosch/Aldon dizzy so all ready to fit clutch and the T5
Last Edited By: Hillclimber Thu, 7-Jan-2010 20:16.
Edited 2 times.
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
cactusdave |
Hydraulic cylinder | #43 | ||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 86 Fri, 8-Jan-2010 11:11 |
On my V6 which is fitted with a type 9 gearbox I fitted a co-axial hydraulic clutch cylinder which goes on the gearbox nose in the bell housing. A similar one
is available for th T5 gearbox from Burton but it is expensive part no APC10- ca £230
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#44 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 89 Sat, 16-Jan-2010 09:38 |
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
cactusdave |
Clearance | #45 | ||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 87 Sat, 16-Jan-2010 14:50 |
On my car, with no passengers and tyres at 45psi (to stop flatting when not in use) the clearance under the sump is 3.5in. Your inlet manifold looks too tall!
Mine with triple Webers and short trumpets have ca 1in clearance from bonnet
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#46 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 91 Tue, 19-Jan-2010 10:16 |
So whilst trying to decide what to with the carb, I have resolved the T5 gearbox, bell housing, hydralic actuator problems. The bell housing which came with
the T5 had no mounting for an external hydraulic cylinder. The bell housing fitted to the "Old" V6 did have a mounting.
So I have made a transition plate to accept the different bolting patterns of the bellhousing and gearbox. I used 1/4" thick Duralium I had in "Stock". I made it using a treplanning tool to cut the large hole and a milling tool to cut the profile all on my pedestal drill. After fitting all together I had to grind off 1/8" from the end of the gearbox shaft. 
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#47 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 93 Mon, 25-Jan-2010 18:25 |
 To increase the funds, my son and I spent some time collecting the 30 years "Junk" and bits I might need one day and attended our local Autojumble with a stand. Quite productive and serious enquiries about the V6, 4HA axle so now I can buy the final, I hope, bits. |
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#48 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 96 Sun, 7-Mar-2010 11:03 |
Was in Chile all February visiting son and family. Just got out before the quake and they survived OK. |
|||
|
|
||||
|
cactusdave |
Starter Motor | #49 | ||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 90 Sun, 7-Mar-2010 16:41 |
I was thinking of fitting the high torque starter motor but as it seems to be "offset" I wasn't sure if it would clear my exhaust? What are you doing about your carb fit? modifying the bonnet or the carb manifold?
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#50 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 97 Mon, 8-Mar-2010 09:15 |
Hi Castusdave
I purchased the RAC407 Powerlite starter motor from www.rallydesign.co.uk at £148.50 + P&P. The 2 bolt mounting flange is bolted to the starter motor and provided with about 30 predrilled holes so you can rotate the motor independant of the flange. I had to rotate about 10 degrees from supply - fitted perfectly AND it rotated engine at high speed inspite of the initial "Very Tight" engine. I am refitting engine before final decision on carb, but looks like a cut and reweld on the manifold. |
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#51 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 98 Mon, 8-Mar-2010 19:25 |
Monday 8th March
Engine & gearbox refitted today and in position. The gearlever on the T5 is a little further back which is good for my short arms!!. Lots of work to do now and THEN engine fire up = always a good time in a restoration |
|||
|
|
||||
|
cactusdave |
Gearlever | #52 | ||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 91 Tue, 9-Mar-2010 11:33 |
Hi,
I had same trouble with my type 9 gearbox so had it shortened Otherwise would have had to have a new leather cover made. Also my arms not short enough!! |
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#53 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 100 Fri, 12-Mar-2010 18:37 |
Have spent the day fitting the Luminition ignition system and tne new Holley petrol pump, filters, and a pressure control valve. The copper pipework looks good with some coils to avoid vibration etc.
I did a check and got an HT spark so all seems OK BUT the coil was extremely hot after my testing, about 20 minutes - is this normal? (By hot I mean I took my hand away very quickly when I grabbed hold of the coil) Radiator fitted and I must say the new (expesive) hoses from Heritage fitted perfectly. Another question: I have forgotten the piperun for the heater system. Since I dont have a heated carb anymore, I have 2 spare connections. Does the water flow from the 1/2" connection on the water pump to the dashboard "Rad" and then flow back to the inlet manifold connection via the "On - Off" control valve - or is it the reverse? |
|||
|
|
||||
|
cactusdave |
Heater | #54 | ||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 92 Thu, 18-Mar-2010 15:48 |
Hi Hillclimber,
It is the reverse, water flows out of the inlet manifold and back to the water pump (got this info from the Haynes Manual for the Capri)You need a control valve mounted on the inlet manifold, various types can be modified to fit and are cable operated. Hope rest of installation going OK |
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#55 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 102 Sun, 28-Mar-2010 10:08 |
10 months work is coming to fruition, the before and after pictures are quite dramatic - I think
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#56 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 103 Tue, 30-Mar-2010 18:15 |
Bugger!! Whilst I managed to get oil pressure today via removing the distributor and attaching an extension spindle with electric drill to the oil pump drive , the extension spindle DROPPED out of the drill upon removal and yes its disappeared inside the engine past the oil drive spindle/ hole??? Cant even see it now!
Any thoughts on its retrival? |
|||
|
|
||||
|
cactusdave |
Missing Spindle | #57 | ||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 93 Wed, 31-Mar-2010 11:18 |
I assume its at the bottom of the hole alongside the camshaft? or stuck partway down. I assume you have removed the hexagonal drive shaft. Have you got one of those claw removal thing's to poke down there and try to grip it? Failing that I suppose you would have to remove the camshaft unless it has got past it.
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#58 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 104 Wed, 31-Mar-2010 17:35 |
Spent quite a bit of time trying to recover the spindle but its now laying on top of the filter screen in the sump !! so its off with the sump and then restart the procedure BUT with a retainer on the spindle |
|||
|
|
||||
|
Hillclimber |
#59 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 104 Wed, 31-Mar-2010 17:35 |
Adrian2 coming over tomorrow to give a hand to recover the spindle so I started work on final assembly of the rear end - hmmmm Being familiar with setting up my single seat race car, I used the same technique on the Marcos. I "G" cramped a horizontal straight edge to the front chassis bar (where bonnet fits on). The 1st measurement to the front wheel centres indicated the drivers side is 1/2" further back than the passenger side. Of course this is non adjustable so must have been a mistake when welding on the fixing points. Then checking to the rear axle, there is a 1" discrepency on the front to rear axle centrelines WHEN the rear axle is set up to a parallel measurment to a chassis member at the back. My car is fitted with 2 adjustable link arms on the rear axle, so I repositioned these to have 2 fixed length on the drivers side and I thought that the 2 adjustable ones on the passenger side would allow me to get the front and rear axles parallel. No way - since the 2 fixed arms located the differential/prop shaft flange at about 15 degrees from the vertical. At present I need to make up a 3rd adjustable link to set the axle - differential in its correct position. I have measured the chassis and it is square ie no accident damage. Has anybody a similar experience?
Last Edited By: Hillclimber Wed, 7-Apr-2010 08:55.
Edited 2 times.
|
|||
|
|
||||
|
martineztop |
#60 | |||
|
Registered Member
Posts: 1458 Fri, 9-Apr-2010 20:13 Chief mechanic |
I'm sure I've read elswhere about differences in the Marcos wheelbases from side to side.
I't's certainly not uncommon in cars. Isn't there a difference in door sizes ? |
|||
|
|
||||
