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I think that between 85-90deg seems good and i would adjust then fan to come on at about 95-100 deg. I have been playing around with this alot on my engine. You can buy a thermostaat which was made for the early Range Rovers which has a much lower opening tempererature. This might be good too keep your oil pressure up, but i think the engine is then working at the cold end of the scale which i personally do not like. I hope this is of help. If you have a good cooling system, when the car is moving ie no traffic jams etc the temperature should stay constant in all seasons.

Hello Nomis I also think you should flush your radiator and try the lower rated Thermostaat that Mr Parslow suggests. It is alot cheaper than buying a new radiator! The Rover number is ETC4761.( I preffere the 82deg.) I also noticed 0.3bar more oil pressure with 74 deg thermostaat. Do not forget to put the deairation hole up. I think the adjustable kenlowe switches are all very nice to play with but it is more gimmick. Maybe they have changed their design now but the experiance i had was to try and get that wire from the sensor to seal between the hose and tube. Crap idea! There is a piece of pipe which you can buy with an 22mm fine thread in it which you can screw a temperature switch into for automatic control of your radiator fans. Martineztop has posted it on this forum, it is also available for Defender Land Rovers 200/300TDI engines. The diameter of this pipe is 38 mm which should be similar to the pipe work of your engine. There is a vast choice of settings to choose from. The fan switch i use is 92 deg on 87 deg off. The easiest way to actually check your normal operating temperature is to measure it with a hand held infra red temperature sensor (i call it a Raytec) This is a hand held device which you point and fire at what you want to measure. It usually fires a red laser beam on the area you are measuring (great fun to be had in the bar or disco) Most garages will have one and is a great tool to use if you want to know how the cooling system is operating. I put a modern engine in my 43 year old Land rover and kept the original sensors, This was a nightmare to calibrate the temperature sensor. (with all the best test equipment at hand for engines) The earthing of the sensor was giving all sorts of problems with higher readings than what was actual. My original radiator was very thin and i think it came from an SD1. It worked very well on the move, but once you stopped, the temperature rocketed up until the fans kicked in. I replaced this with a much bigger ally radiator which is meant for Subaru's. The differance on the move just the same as the original, but when stopped temperature increased a little slower (not much) until fans kicked in. Then the temperature dropped much quicker. With me cost is always important, I would have choose a radiator which passes the coolant from one side of the radiator and then back again. The reason being a faster flow through the radiator channels causing more turbulance giving better heat transfer. I think most of our overheating problems are caused by lack of cooling water flow at low rpm's and bad deairation of the cooling water system. If your engine is hunting at tickover it could be related to the stepper motor or an air leak in or around the plenum chamber. My car did the same, i tried to clean the stepper motor but destroyed it, i replaced it with a new one and the problem was gone. I hope this helps you.