It worked, I can now real my dials in the dark but come on learned ones. What risks do I run? Is anything going to overheat or blow?
I have kept the 2.2 watt bulbs just in case so any guidance would be greatfully received.
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socramsnalla |
Instrument illumination |
Lead | ||
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I got really p***ed off on Friday night at having to peer at gloomy dials that I could hardly read so I took the dash apart on Saturday with the intention of
cleaning up the bulbs and bulb holders but found that they were pristine and as clean as a whistle. However, I did notice that the bulbs in all the instruments
are rated at 2.2 watts so as an experiment I have swapped them for 5 watts.
It worked, I can now real my dials in the dark but come on learned ones. What risks do I run? Is anything going to overheat or blow? I have kept the 2.2 watt bulbs just in case so any guidance would be greatfully received. |
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boycey |
#1 | |||
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Yes i have noticed this on the Lm600 also, the bulbs are a very low wattage, however i have orderd some blue replacement bulbs that are a higher wattage, this
should not pose any problems at all, so yours should be fine, when you 1st installed them and turned your lights on it would have blown a fuse if they where
causing problems, so as it has not you will be fine!.
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Mike009 Gardner |
#2 | |||
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Hi Allan,
Well done for pioneering a solution to this infamous Marcos problem . Let me know how you get on , if your car hasn`t burnt out all its electrics in a month or desolved into a pile of ash , I`ll do the same thing myself. |
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socramsnalla |
#3 | |||
Mike009 Gardner wrote:Will do Mike. The only side effect is the increased reflective glare on the windscreen at night. (More of a problem for Sue than me). |
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hrt |
In Belgium this is known as the law of Ohm. | #4 | ||
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You have to multiply the 5 Watt by the amount of bulbs fitted. Then you devide the result by 12 (V) and it gives you the ampères. Compare that to the Amps on
the fuse. If the fuse is a higher A: Ok
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socramsnalla |
#5 | |||
hrt wrote:Thanks hrt. I knew there had to some science in it somewhere. Over here its OHMs law, the same (or in laymans terms a possible melted fuse). I only had to change 6 bulbs (I could already read the clock) so that means an extra 16.8 watts that I need to take into account in the overall calculations. Does anyone know for certain if anything else is running through the fuse for the instrument lights so I can do some sums? |
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woody |
#6 | |||
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Hi Allan.
May be easier to pull the fuse and see what no longer works and then do the maths. Or, once you know what is going through the fuse, switch it all on fuse removed and put a meter on an appropriate current setting across the fuse holder and read the current. |
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hrt |
#7 | |||
socramsnalla wrote:Thanks Socramsnalla, now I know how to write it correctly. As I stated it in one of my "For Sale" comments: it's not always as simple as it looks (any computertranslater can do a literal tanslation but every language has its fluency)
Last Edited By: hrt Wed, 20-May-2009 09:39.
Edited 1 time.
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Jack |
#8 | |||
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OR replace them with LED's which use a whole lot less current.
The other alternative is to open the instrument and remove the plastic bulb cover, these have usually burned black over time so let no light through. |
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OldNoccer |
#9 | |||
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This is all very interesting - I drove mine in the dark last Saturday for the first time in ages, and the instruments were invisible (officer). Damned tricky
when going past the speed cameras, there was about 0.0001 watt of light getting through to speedo or rev counter - on the other hand the main beam light is
dazzling ! I didn't realise they might have a little window inside the instrument where the holder goes in - I assumed it was an open hole.
Anyway, thanks for reminding me - something more to put on the 'to-do' list. Steve
There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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martineztop |
#10 | |||
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had same issue, but added to by the fact the bulb holders fell out sometimes. inside there is a green lens which does block most of the light.
LEDs are a better proposal as higher wattage bulbs create more heat, my old Volvo 480 used to have a halogen bulb fitted for the computer display, it blew once and cost me £9 from Volvo so they're not an option, my vote's for LEDs, nice n bright |
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hrt |
Led illumination | #11 | ||
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Make sure you put the right resistor in line to limit the Led current, or buy Leds that are usable with 12V (with the resistor incorporated). Leds have much
improved the last few years: they give plenty of light for very little current compared to bulbs.
Last Edited By: hrt Sun, 31-May-2009 18:47.
Edited 2 times.
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socramsnalla |
#12 | |||
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The Instrument lights are on a 20amp fuse (middle block of the three banks of fuses) along with the horns, the clock and the Hazard warning lights. I spent
some time last night with everything on to see if the fuse would blow under full load and everything is still ok. However, the bulbs may be genersting a bit
more heat because three of the instruments misted up for a short while but thats probably down to a residue from my attempts to clean the bulb holders at the
weekend.
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The Quiffster |
#13 | |||
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I had a quick look on the web at LED replacements to the standard 2.2V (Smiths) gaugue bulbs, with mixed results. There seem to be some 'wide beam'
LEDs which look promising, & a lot of comments about focused (read 'don't light up the whole face'!) the standard LED replacements are. Apart
from Boycey's blue LEDs, is anyone else actively pursuing LED replacements?
The Quiffster
Unregistered user?, Why not come in out of the cold? It's painless, free and opens other options up to you. Spare less than a minute of your time and register here, go on, you know it makes sense! |
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cactus jack |
Damn Dim Instruments | #14 | ||
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Useful comments and observations from all so thanks to that. Have not looked at the instrument bulb locations yet, so if one goes down the higher wattage bulbs
route does there appear to be enough air space around the bulbs and holders to be able to rule out melting plastic, a fired up Marcos etc.
Of course if we are talking of only six bulbs at 5W each that's 30W/12V i.e 2 and a half amps, so that is small cheese or only about an amp more than the dim ones, so 1 amp extra should have minimal impact electrically on fuse or wiring to the bulbs, so if fuse goes because total load is already at 100% then replace with next level higher rated fuse. In the unlikely event that the wiring to the bulbs equates to a human hair i.e it can't support an extra 1Amp then you might have to double up on the wiring to get over the problem. For the higher output bulbs solution the undesirable effect of increased heat may be the only problem, in which case an LED solution will be the only answer because low energy bulbs are a little large don't you think, at least when I try to substitute them in my lamp shades? |
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martineztop |
#15 | |||
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these should do the trick, price is for 3
http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=19498 |
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OldNoccer |
#16 | |||
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Its a bit weird that the description says they are in 3s, but the Q&A says they are sold individually. Think I will buy some to try out, though right now
an engine misfire is more pressing.
There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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OldNoccer |
#17 | |||
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I bought a couple of the LEDs as I was in Maplin anyway - NR73Q is sold singly at £1.79, then you need to buy a resistor to go with it - and adapt the bulb
holder to take it (or make a new one). The guy behind the counter lit it up using a test box, and like most LED lights it doesn't project as much light as
would be suggested by its brightness when you look directly at it. I suspect there is some deep technical reason for this to do with light wavelengths. So it
is hard to tell how good they will be at this stage.
Anyone else experimenting ?
There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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martineztop |
#18 | |||
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how much ? daylight robbery, I withdraw my suggestion of going to maplins at that price, time to find some cheaper. let us know how you get on Noccer old mate
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boycey |
blue leds | #19 | ||
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the blue leds are now installed in the LM and look excellent especially against the blak smith dials and carbon dash and the push button replacement brushed
ali buttons eliuminate also when the side lights are put, look really good also. they are slightly higher wattage but are ok!
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OldNoccer |
#20 | |||
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Normally an LED is matched to a resistor - but they draw next to no power, so I assume if you have a bunch you can use a single variable resistor and run an
LED supply - that way giving dimming. This needs verifying by someone with electrical nonce, but seems right to me.
Steve
There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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