| Author | Comment | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
marco mantara |
MOT-Headlight covers |
Lead | ||
|
Hi- l've heard/read somewhere that the covers affect the light beams-"defraction"? Would it be a good idea to remove them before taking in for
the MOT----could save a "conversation" with the tester?
|
||||
|
|
||||
paulo |
Whatever next!? | #1 | ||
|
They'll be telling us soon that there is too much bounce in certain tyres! |
||||
|
|
||||
mendamantis |
#2 | |||
|
Never had an issue before and the mantis ones are sealed in place, so would be a bit of a bugger to remove once a year.
|
||||
|
|
||||
Cool Mart |
#3 | |||
|
Yep, mine used to fail unless the covers were removed.
Now I pull up outside the MOT station, remove both headlight covers and wind the mixture back on the carbs before going in ! |
||||
|
|
||||
socramsnalla |
#4 | |||
|
Never had any trouble with mine. Even passed last time with the continental deflectors still on
|
||||
|
|
||||
purplehaze |
#5 | |||
|
My factory built spyder never had any problems with the headlight covers on. Mind you, I did choose the MOT station carefully!
The first time I took my current, kit built, coupe (different test station) they couldn't even adjust them to pass with covers off. I had to take it away and work out a fix myself. Fortunately they told me that the nearside was spot on and if I could get the offside the same it would be okay. I stood a sheet of chipboard in front of the car with the lights on and marked where the correct one focused. Projecting a horizontal line across and setting a vertical (with reference to the centre of the car I think) I marked where the offside should focus. It took such a long adjusting screw to bring the light to the right position I was surprised that it held together on the way to the retest. They were amazed when both lights were spot on! I can't help wondering how it had passed all those other MOTs through its life. Maybe I chose the wrong test station this time. |
||||
|
|
||||
marco mantara |
#6 | |||
|
Thanks for the input everyone. On reflection (pun) l think l'll remove mine----only a few screws,(plus l 'll be able to clean out all the muck that has
collected under them) This is the first time l've had to have it MOTed since l bought it,and so l will have to strike up a rapport with the tester. Like
the MOTing of my Kitcar l think it will be a good idea to stay with the car ie -sitting in it.during the test and "helping". Particularly better if
l am applying the handbrake rather than the tester. Do all Mantara handbrakes need steroid enhanced biceps to pull them up?
|
||||
|
|
||||
socramsnalla |
#7 | |||
marco mantara wrote:Mine did until the cables were replaced and it was all properly cleaned up at the last MOT |
||||
|
|
||||
boycey |
handbrake from hell!! | #8 | ||
|
funny you mention this, last year when i still owned the green lm400, i took a young lad to his prom night, in the Lm and when we pulled up outside the
function, i went to use the handbrake ( never normally use it) and i wish i didnt!! i actually tore a tendon in my left bicep!! it was bloody agony the
handbrake was that stiff!!! took weeks to recover!! now all adjusted you will be pleased to know bmarti!!!
|
||||
|
|
||||
marco mantara |
#9 | |||
|
Hi---What is the procedure to "service" the handbrake cables ?---l've tried greasing the nipples a few feet from the rear brakes- on each side .
(wd40 first ). They seem to be loosening up a bit now . Are there anymore nipples or greasing points further forward --nearer the handbrake ? ( at the moment
my car is outside on a narrow sloping drive and l don't fancy crawling right under the car unless l really need to!!)
How many notches (though l haven't been aware of physically hearing them when using the handbrake---yank up hard until the car stops rolling backwards) - before you feel the brakes bite? If and when l get freer cable movement -how do you adjust brakes if it is needed? |
||||
|
|
||||
mendamantis |
#10 | |||
|
I am afraid you will have to get under the car, Ifound the best way to get better handbrake cable movement is to remove the cables.
You can then move the outer sheaths of the cables up and down the length of the inner cable, clean up with a bit of WD40 or equivalent then pump plentuy of grease into the nipple until it is coming out the ends. then refit meade quite a diference to mine. When removing the cable you will spot the length adjuster where the cable runs through the tension balance mechanism about 12" behind the hand brake. |
||||
|
|
||||
Mike009 Gardner |
#11 | |||
|
What you need is a sympathetic MOT tester like mine who takes the view that an enthusiasts well maintained "classic" car that doesn`t do a lot of
mileage per year is less of a liability than the average euro-box even if it doesn`t meet all the ever increasing regulations that keep coming out .
My MOT is basicly , does it go ? does it stop, does lights , indicators, horn work ? Suspension OK ? Ball Joints OK ? Tires OK ? Job done . Stand and have chat whilst compooter goes through its pre-determined "timed out" and there you go, one shiny new MOT. He won`t MOT an unsafe car but takes a pragmatic view, but I guess I`m just lucky and I`ve been using him for years on all my cars. I even told him the handbrakes are notoriously naff so keep a brick handy !!! I have got it more effective now than it`s ever been by adjustment and lubrication like the other guys have said. Still don`t rely on it too much though. |
||||
|
|
||||
marco mantara |
#12 | |||
|
Sounds like you've found a realistic tester- lucky you ! My MOT is due in July, and forward thinking (can't make the 50th weekend, but hope to at least
be "convoying"on the Friday in and around Prescott) if l leave the test till then ,and something major is found, l might need the time to sort it.
Following on from the advice so far given-l will venture under the car (slope and all) and have a go at the cables. From the thread on guess the weight (Mantula) if the car does drop down on me, l will at least be able to give a "very quick" hands on account of how heavy a Mantara feels! |
||||
|
|
||||
bmarti |
#13 | |||
|
Actually Boycey,guess what,when i test drove the LM the handbrake was really easy to use ,in fact so easy it didnt work at all and Jeremy had to replace it ,
now guess what, the bloody thing needs those muscles you were talking about to pull it on,but i still love it,ineeded little things like this to keep me
occupied.
|
||||
|
|
||||
boycey |
#14 | |||
|
ahhh the ongoing pleasures of marcos ownership!! at least the LM600 will be ok
|
||||
|
|
||||
Mike009 Gardner |
#15 | |||
|
So now we`ve established all Marcos owners have bulging left biceps ! I guess our right arms get the excersise ( no not that !! ) from lifting wads of money to
be spent on pride & joys .
Talking of which, for anyone remembering previous threads about erratic fuel gauges and Mantara engines over reving on tick over and a trailing throttle, I`ve just fitted new tank sender unit and a stepper motor from MHS last weekend whilst doing the annual service. So far, a petrol gauge that reads something close to sensible and . whoopie do , an engine that idles properly and revs that drop on the down change. The engine even seems to run more smoothly and crisply . Or am I just kidding myself ? Let`s hope it lasts. Pity you can only make Prescott run on the Friday Marco. I can only make Sunday and it would have good to see you and the car and see how how you are getting along with it . Maybe at Silverstone , Supercar Sunday or some other gig ? |
||||
|
|
||||
Martyn123 |
#16 | |||
|
Hi,
Re the tough handbrake, could it be that the pivot point may need altering to give more power to the leverage (arm) end. I read about this in relation to brake pedals in the book recommended by Oldnoccer "How to build and modify suspension & brakes" speedpro series, or a similiar article is here http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/pedalratio.php Regards, Martyn. |
||||
|
|
||||